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Hunting Backpacks for Alaska Big Game Hunting backpacks are a personal choice and there are plenty of options. The new Extreme Combo Pack System made by Rokman is one that should definitely be in the running when narrowing down your list of hunting backpacks. It’s completely waterproof and versatile, allowing hunters to combine several packs into one larger pack all based on a lightweight, but practically bulletproof, carbon fiber hunting pack frame. It’s really a great pack for big game hunters in Alaska. Rokman’s Extreme Combo Pack System received a Hunt Alaska magazine Editors’ Choice Award this Summer in our Annual Gear Guide. Here are the main features we like best in this hunting backpack: Completely waterproof. Rigid, durable and built tough. Versatile, quick-change system Features galore including a built in seat Designed to carry one or multiple packs Most importantly, it’s comfortable See how the versatile Rokman pack works as a system in this video review by Hunt Alaska magazine.

Post: 9 November 10:02

Hotel in Hunting Island What You Will See The Island has three miles of walkable beaches, a historic lighthouse, and ample opportunities for bird watching, fishing, crabbing, or shrimping. Shady picnic tables, showers, dressing rooms make a day trip to the beach manageable. The Island’s marshes there were used for the Vietnam War scenes in the movie Forrest Gump. Jungle and water camp scenes for the movie G.I. Jane were also shot on Hunting Island. As you drive in, you go through a maritime forest with soaring pines and palms. Nestled into this woodland setting is the Visitors Center where you can get a park map and brochure, and see exhibits on the historic lighthouse as well as on the natural flora and fauna. A small auditorium hosts educational programs on the island’s nature and history.

Post: 3 November 18:46

Henry X Models: The Wait is Finally Over The Henry X Models Have Arrived The concept for the Henry X Model series began at the 2018 NRA Annual Meetings & Exhibits in Dallas, Texas where a blacked-out .45-70 rifle and .410 bore shotgun were put on display to gauge everyone’s reaction to this departure from Henry’s usual blued-steel or brass receivers and American walnut furniture. Suffice it to say that the response among showgoers was positive, but little did they know that Henry Repeating Arms had more up their sleeves. With the release of Henry’s first rifle to feature a side loading gate looming in production behind closed doors, the vision for the production version of the Henry X Model became clearer. In January of 2020, Henry Repeating Arms announced the X Model Series to the world in Las Vegas at the SHOT Show. With no booth on the show floor, Henry dropped the news with a Lever Action X Model .45-70 at Federal Premium’s booth alongside a new line of ammunition called HammerDown, and a Big Boy X Model in .357 Magnum/.38 Special at SilencerCo’s booth. From the moment the first photos started circulating in the firearms media world, the Henry X Model Series began taking the lever-gun world by storm. Henry’s X Models are designed from the ground up to utilize the best of Henry’s tried-and-true large-frame platform and additional features to provide unparalleled versatility. These are designed with every shooter in mind from hunters to those looking for a double-duty, home-defense gun. The X Model series consists of the Henry Big Boy platform, chambered in .44 Mag/.44 Spl, .357 Mag./.38 Spl, and .45 Colt, a lever-action .410 shotgun, and another rifle chambered in .45-70 Government. Perhaps most notably, all five models sport durable and lightweight synthetic furniture with a solid-rubber recoil pad on the pistol-gripped buttstock. Synthetic furniture is a departure from the initial 2018 concept, which used Henry’s existing black stained-hardwood furniture found on the All-Weather series. The reason for this departure is evident with the addition of a Picatinny rail and M-Lok accessory slots on the forestock, and integrated sling swivel studs neatly tucked away. In the short time that these models have been on the market, it appears that a bipod on the Picatinny rail and a flashlight on one the side M-Lok slots is the preferred configuration. Of course, with more gadgets comes more weight, so running it plain and simple as it comes right out of the box is another good option. The matte blued-steel receivers utilize a side loading gate so that the removable tube magazine can be topped off at all times. Additionally, the top of the receiver is drilled and tapped to accept an optics mount to accommodate a red-dot sight or scope. The rifles are all threaded at the muzzle end with a 5/8×24 thread pitch to accommodate a suppressor. Shooting .38 Spl out of a suppressed rifle is an experience that all shooters need to have at some point. The X Model .410 Shotgun’s smoothbore barrel is threaded internally for a removable invector-style choke as opposed to the external threading that the rifles use. High contrast, fiber-optic sights adorn all of the X Models with the .410 shotgun variation using only a green fiber-optic front sight. While these new guns may seem like a massive departure from Henry’s line of classic lever actions, they are also proof that Henry Repeating Arms is always listening to what customers want. All five models are now available nationwide from licensed firearms dealers with an MSRP across the board of $970.00.

Post: 3 November 10:39

Hardware: Leupold RX-FullDraw 5 Rangefinder When it comes to glass, I’m a Leupold guy. I’ve come to trust the clarity and dependability of their optics, from scopes to binos to spotters, and they always perform brilliantly. Of course, rangefinders fall into the optic arena and are arguably one of the most crucial tools for firearm and archery hunters. Over the years, the rangefinder pocket on my bino harness has held multiple Leupold models like the RX-1600i TBR/W, RX-FullDraw 3 and RX-FullDraw 4. All performed as advertised, and I killed lots of critters using them. Leupold’s latest incarnation for archers, the RX-FullDraw 5, is the spitting image of the RX-4: compact, lightweight, durable, ergonomic and 6x magnification. The big difference, and one I was ready to dive headfirst into, is the new rangefinder’s Ballistic Mode. Before taking full advantage of the technology that makes this rangefinder one of the market’s most advanced and accurate bowhunting rangefinders, Leupold asks that you complete the following three tasks. First, use a chronograph to measure your arrow’s speed. Leupold’s instruction manual will tell you to record the velocity of your arrow at 36 inches of draw length. Don’t let this become a roadblock—simply shoot your standard draw length and record your arrow’s velocity. Second, use a digital arrow scale to measure your arrow’s total weight. Be sure to weigh the arrow with the broadhead you plan to use while hunting. Lastly, have your wife, kid, friend or whoever use a ruler or tape measure to record the vertical distance between your arrow shaft at full draw and the center of your peep sight. That’s it. Now it’s just a matter of punching in the numbers. Don’t let the setup process intimidate you. You don’t have to work at MIT to be able to use the RX-FullDraw 5. Press the Power button on top of the rangefinder’s body and then hold the Mode button on the rangefinder’s left side toward the front until you see “CALC” on the screen. Now press the power button again, which will scroll you through the various CALC settings until you reach the “BALL” (ballistic) setting. Select BALL by punching the Mode button again. You’ll see “VEL” (velocity) in the screen’s upper right corner. Use the Power button to set your arrow’s speed, and then press the Mode button to continue. You’ll now see “WGHT” (weight) on the screen’s upper right corner. Again, use the Power button to enter your arrow’s weight. Hit the Mode button, and then plug in your peep height. It’s that simple. The most tech-challenged person in the world can set up this rangefinder. Of course, Leupold thought of everything, and you can adjust display brightness, unit of measurement, crosshair display, etc. The rangefinder walks you through each process. Leupold dubs the next important choice as Flightpath technology. You have two options. The default 20-yard mode shows an illuminated mark, or tick, as Leupold dubs it, indicating the max height of your arrow flight at a 20-yard target. I like this mode; it tells me that if I see any obstructions below the tick mark, I will have arrow interference. The second mode is Mid Mode. When using this mode, the illuminated tick mark represents the highest point of flight along the arrow’s entire path, usually halfway between you and your target. It’s a matter of personal preference, but I tell you without hesitation that the default mode simplifies things.

Post: 25 October 10:14

Hunting season in East Belgium In East Belgium hunting can be carried out in an expansive forested area spanning some 45,000 hectares (111,000 acres). The right to hunt there can be obtained by leasing a hunting ground of at least 50 hectares (123 acres) from the forest owners (the Walloon region, the municipalities or the private owners). This lease runs for 6, 9 or 12 years. It goes without saying that every hunter must hold a hunting licence which is obtained by passing a suitable examination. In East Belgium, game predominantly consists of stags, deer and wild boars, the hunting of which is strictly organised by legislation and the large gamekeeping communities. Contrary to popular belief, hunting is not only organised for the pleasure of hunters but, above all, for the purpose of regulating the number of animals in the forest so that the economic utilisation of the forest is ensured. If game numbers are too high, this can result in substantial damage being caused to the rejuvenation of leaf trees and to trees of economic value. For this reason, culling plans were already introduced many years ago which specify the exact number of animals which may be culled during the hunting season. These are based on the game population counted by the forest administration in the spring. Conservation Approximately 500 people have permission to hunt in East Belgium, either as tenants of a hunting ground or because they have received an invitation from such a tenant. The hunters are members of a large game ring whose primary objective is to organise hunting by respecting the manner in which the wildlife lives and the conservation of nature – in direct collaboration with the forest administration. Game is extremely popular among gourmets as a gastronomic delicacy. The sale of culled game is strictly regulated in order to guarantee that it can be traced. The sale is carried out by specialised, approved companies which have applied for a licence.

Post: 19 October 09:58

Hunting in Croatia Croatia is a country of arich hunting tradition, attractive hunting areas and diverse wildlife. Modern organized hunting in Croatia began in 1881 and by then hunting had adouble role throughout the history. The majority of poorer and mainly rural population found hunting extremely important for daily survival struggle, since it represented an important food source, while the wealthy aristocratic minority hunted for fun, pleasureor social status confirmation. In 1881, the Government of the Kingdom of Croatia and Slavonia decided to confirm so called “Hunting Rules” developed by “Society for defense of hunting in the Kingdom of Croatia and Slavonia” and already in 1882 the society published “The First Common Croatian Hunting and Fishing Cultivation Society Courier ”. Even before these decisions and actions the well-organized hunting already existed, which was mainly due to people from the existing social elite, who have contributed to the common understanding of overall hunting development in Croatia. Geographical location and natural features of Croatia, make hunting a variety of wildlife throughout the country. In the eastern lowland Croatian regions, Slavonia and Baranja, it is possible to hunt deer, roebuck, wild boar, and the small, hairy and feathery fowl. In central Croatia it is also possible to hunt all the wildlife above, while in the area of Lika and Gorski Kotar it is possible to hunt bear and grouse. On the coast of Dalmatia, the special attraction is hunting chamois and mouflon, and the specific types of smallgame birds that inhabits high altitudes like the rock partridge, grouse and the hryvnia. For each ofthese areas, in addition to a variety of hunting game, and a specific way of hunting, hunting practices, breeds of hunting dogs, etc. NTERESTING FACTS Republic of Croatia represents a unique natural environment where on a relatively small area one can find great variety of nature phenomena, all tied in the wonderful bond of the Mediterranean, the Alps and the Pannonia. Croatia is a country of arich hunting tradition, attractive hunting areas and diverse wildlife. Croatia possesses numerous undisturbed natural oases wherein there abide all three of great European predators: bear, wolf and lynx. The hunting ground Podunavlje-Podravlje was established in 1697. when Eugen of Savoy received the estates from the emperor Leopold I. It was founded in 1870 when Count Marko Bombelles delivered a large number of pheasants from South Moravia and set aside land for organised hunting.

Post: 19 October 09:57

Hunting Squirrels: Which .22 is for You? Lever-action, single-shot, bolt-action, semi-automatic and pump. When we picture a .22-caliber rifle in our mind, one of these traditional guns is sure to appear. However, a new style is emerging as a great sporting tool. Lately, .22-caliber rifles are being built on tactical rifle frames. These guns may look a lot different, but when it comes to putting a round in a squirrel’s ear they all work the same. With squirrel season in full swing in the Midwest, what better time to take a look at America’s favorite rifle caliber. Literally billions of rounds of .22-caliber rimfire ammunition are fired each year. Most of it is shot while plinking and hunting squirrels and rabbits, though small varmints like groundhogs are also heavily hunted with rimfire guns Today, almost all rimfire ammo in common use is of .22-caliber, with only a few limited exceptions (like the .17 HMR). This was not always the case, however. One of the most sought-after "Yankee" guns of the Civil War was a Spencer carbine. An incredibly large magazine capacity and the fixed cartridge it used made it a very desirable rifle, but the cartridge used in the Spencer was a rimfire cartridge of about .52 caliber. There were also many rimfire handguns in this era, for instance, those of .30 and.38 caliber. Even the .44-caliber Henry rifle was a rimfire gun. This aside made, the rimfire ammo being used today is primarily as follows: .22 Short, .22 Long, .22 Long Rifle and .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire. There are a number of variations which include standard velocity, high velocity, solid bullets and hollow-point bullets. One or more of these variations can be found in a single cartridge: for example, a .22 Long Rifle, high-velocity, hollow-point. (As a side note for any 5mm fans out there: the 5mm Remington Magnum never really caught on, and it is probably not unfair to say that, even though it is a relatively recent introduction, it is already a dying cartridge. The other, more popular rimfires will for sure be with us for as long as we have the right to bear arms.) The lifespan of the various .22-caliber rimfires is assured by their comparatively low cost, low noise level, good accuracy and sufficient energy for taking small varmint and small game at ranges out to 50 yards. Under certain circumstances the ranges can be stretched to 75 or 100 yards, but the use of any rimfire cartridges at ranges beyond 100 yards falls into the stunt category, and will generally result in the loss of a lot of crippled game.

Post: 20 September 10:19

Hardware: Browning A5 Wicked Wing Sweet Sixteen A legendary early 20th century shotgun, the 16-gauge dropped off the map in 1989 when skeet shooting rules were finalized by the newly formed National Sporting Clays Association, and the gauge didn’t make the cut. As much as field shooters favored the shotgun’s lightweight, functional, easy-on-the-shoulder nature, skeet shooters press the trigger more than upland and waterfowl hunters combined, and ammo manufacturers couldn’t justify the cost of production. Browning A5 Wicked Wing Sweet Sixteen Semi Automatic Shotgun. Today, however, this near-perfect gauge is making a remarkable comeback. Why? Efficiency. Not only do 16-gauge loads hit with a wallop, especially with modern-day tungsten and bismuth, the guns are simply a joy to tote. Weighing less than most 12-gauge options and comparable to 20-gauge models, a quality 16-gauge makes a tremendous all-day field gun for any shooter. I’m a Browning fan, and my 12-gauge A5 has been my waterfowl go-to for over five years. The gun is a shooter, and I’m deadly with it in my hands. I was elated when Browning’s all-new A5 Wicked Wing Sweet Sixteen arrived at my local gun shop. My grandfather had an old, beat-up 16—I couldn’t tell you the make and model—and I loved that shotgun. I was excited to put Browning’s new-for-2022 beauty through the paces. The shotgun is a showstopper. The composite stock and forearm on the tested model were cloaked in Mossy Oak Shadow Grass Habitat camo, and the humpback receiver and 28-inch (26-inch barrel available) barrel sport a Cerakote Burnt Bronze camo finish. The camo pattern is continued onto the receiver, laser etched onto the Cerakote finish giving the Wicked Wing some extra eye appeal. Of course, the legendary gold Browning trigger stands out, and I loved the over-sized bolt release that mimics the look of a shotshell head. The two-bead sight system is back, and shooters will appreciate the red front fiber-optic, visible in nearly any lighting condition. Another sweet, no-pun-intended addition is the extended Invector-DS Goose Band choke tube. Browning went to great lengths to ensure that when consumers look at this shotgun, they know it was designed to be a waterfowl wrecker. Metal parts adorned in Cerakote, the A5 Sweet Sixteen passed all of my scratch tests and should be able to withstand even the nastiest ducking weather. Assembly of the A5 is about the easiest I’ve come across. There’s a pleasant lack of tricks and jostling required to seat the barrel and action correctly. The shotgun shoulders brilliantly at just 6-plus pounds, and the slim, ergonomic forearm only sweetens the build. Chalk up this slim forearm to the recoil-operated Kinematic Drive system, as opposed to a gas-operating system with springs and buffers usually located around the magazine tube. Cheek weld on the composite stock feels natural—no raising, lowering or canting of my head was necessary to look down the barrel and line up the sights. More on this later. Browning A5 Wicked Wing Sweet Sixteen Shotgun Action. The action is smooth, and the Cerakoted operating handle is perfectly curved and gridded for increased purchase. The action lock is located on the bottom of the shotgun just in front of the trigger guard, and the oversized bolt release will be appreciated when Mother Nature is being cruel and hands are covered with monstrous gloves. The push-button safety, though not huge, sits outside the trigger guard, above and behind. Black is cold, and red is hot; you know the drill. The Sweet Sixteen is fitted for a sling, and two attachment points are found, one at the rear and the other on the fore-end cap. Built to accept 2¾-inch 16-gauge loads, shells glide into the chamber gently and create an audible click once seated. Browning’s effort to create an uber-balanced gun shines when you shoulder the Sweet Sixteen; Browning dubs this Ergo Balance. This technology blends the shotgun’s zero point of impact (50 percent of the pattern above the target and 50 percent below the target) with the legendary humpback receiver and flat-rib barrel design to give the shooter a larger sight plane. A larger sight plane means less opportunity for shooter error. While duck and goose seasons had ended by the time I got my hands on the Sweet Sixteen, I crushed trap, skeet and sporting clays for days using popular duck and goose loads. The shotgun swings effortlessly and fits me like a glove. I laid flat in my layout and had my son launch clays over my head to add additional in-the-field realism. I could rave about the balance and shootability of this gun forever, but all that ink will do you no good. You need to shoot this new A5 Sweet Sixteen for yourself. Recoil is another place where the A5 Sweet Sixteen ranks high. The Kinematic Drive system robs kinetic energy that would be transferred into the shooter’s shoulder and utilizes that power to eject spent shells cleanly and chamber the next. Of course, Browning’s Inflex recoil pad works like a wonder, and less recoil means quicker target acquisition and more accurate shooting on second and third shots. Over two weeks, my family and I put more than 300 rounds through the shotgun and experienced zero issues. Make no mistake: This 16-gauge is a shotgun that can be used successfully by a wide range of shooters because of its light weight, slim build and lack of recoil. My wife and 16-year-old son fell in love with it, meaning I see yet another Browning purchase in my future. Browning A5 Wicked Wing Sweet Sixteen Shotgun Barrel with Choke Tube. I’m an Invector-DS fan, and three tubes come with the gun: full, modified and improved cylinder. I tested each at various ranges, and the modified and improved are what you’d expect. The full, though, was extra impressive. My 50-yard pattern shooting Hevi-Bismuth No. 4 was remarkable, and for grins—and because I planned to jelly a turkey head with the gun in the coming weeks—I put numerous pellets in the head of a Birchwood Casey Reactive Paper Turkey target at 60 yards with Hevi-Bismuth No. 6. Both tests were conducted from shooting sticks using the shotgun’s standard ivory mid-bead sight and front fiber-optic sight. Impressive. My son is a snow-goose killer, and while we were taking apart the gun and putting it back together for cleaning purposes, he pointed out the TurnKey Magazine Plug. It’s a win. Use your truck key (or just about anything else), and in seconds, you can remove the shotgun’s plug, which is handy for springtime snow goose pursuits. If you’re a serious waterfowler looking to tote a light-recoiling yet plenty powerful shotgun that performs flawlessly and swings beautifully on even the fastest flying teal, the A5 Wicked Wing Sweet Sixteen is the shotgun for you. Technical Specifications • Type: semi-auto shotgun • Gauge/Chamber: 16/2¾" • Capacity: 4 rnds. • Barrel: 26"; vent rib; interchangeable choke tubes • Trigger: 6-lb. pull weight • Sights: mid-bead; red fiber-optic front sight • Safety: cross-bolt • Stock: synthetic; multiple camo options available (Mossy Oak Shadow Grass Habitat shown); 14¼" LOP; 2" drop at heel; 1¾" drop at comb • Metal Finish: Burnt Bronze Cerakote • Overall Length: 47⅝” • Weight: 6 lbs., 1 oz. • Accessories: Invector-DS choke tubes (M, IC, F) • MSRP: $2,379.99; browning.com

Post: 19 September 11:24

Hunting Ammo: What to Look for in a Big-Game Bullet Hunting bullets have come a long way since the first round lead ball was launched game-ward from a long-barreled muzzleloader. Bullets now are long and streamlined, tipped with space-age material, and constructed of copper married to lead through special bonding processes. They are incredibly accurate, highly aerodynamic, and boast superb terminal performance. They are the finest killing projectiles the world has ever known; that’s a great thing for us as hunters. NRA American Hunter Logo NRA American Hunter Logo MENU Search American Hunter Quick Links NRA MEMBERSHIP Sections NEWS NEW FOR 2022 #SUNDAYGUNDAY ARCHERY GAME GUNS & GEAR HOW-TO HUNTERS' LEADERSHIP FORUM JOIN THE HUNT LIFESTYLE SHOT SHOW STATE FISH & GAME INFORMATION WILD GAME RECIPES VIDEOS NRA Publications AMERICAN RIFLEMAN AMERICAN HUNTER SHOOTING ILLUSTRATED AMERICA'S FIRST FREEDOM NRA WOMEN NRA FAMILY SHOOTING SPORTS USA NRA HUNTERS' LEADERSHIP FORUM NRA BLOG HELP Hunting Ammo: What to Look for in a Big-Game Bullet by ARAM VON BENEDIKT posted on September 6, 2022 NEWS, AMMO, BIG GAME Support NRA American Hunter DONATE Photo 1 Hunting bullets have come a long way since the first round lead ball was launched game-ward from a long-barreled muzzleloader. Bullets now are long and streamlined, tipped with space-age material, and constructed of copper married to lead through special bonding processes. They are incredibly accurate, highly aerodynamic, and boast superb terminal performance. They are the finest killing projectiles the world has ever known; that’s a great thing for us as hunters. Bullet Mold What Kills Game? To effectively and cleanly kill a big-game animal, a bullet needs to expand reliably and penetrate deeply no matter what it encounters en route. That’s the crux of bullet performance. If a bullet fragments to bits upon impact, or stops upon encountering bone, it likely won’t penetrate deeply enough to accomplish a clean kill. Or if it fails to expand, it may simply pencil through, doing minimal damage along the way and failing to accomplish a clean kill. Here’s a short anatomy-of-a-kill lesson for you: There are three ways a bullet will cause rapid and mostly painless death: 1: Collapse the lungs, causing a dearth of oxygen to the brain. 2: Cause massive damage to the circulatory system including the heart, arteries, and veins, leading to catastrophic loss of blood and blood pressure. 3: Disrupt or destroy the central nervous system, which consists of the brain and spinal column.* Of the three, number one—the lungs—offers the biggest target, results in the fastest death, and usually comes with the side benefit of accomplishing number 2 en-route. When a bullet passes through the lungs they collapse almost instantly. Arteries and veins, and sometimes the heart, are destroyed as well. Within seconds the brain is starved of oxygen and blood pressure plummets. The animal literally blacks out and tips over, unconscious even before it is dead. This is the ideal, painless-as-possible death that we as ethical hunters should strive for every time we take a shot.

Post: 19 September 09:49

How to Plan Your First Antelope Hunt Pronghorns are the gateway species for Western big-game hunters, and there’s a long season full of opportunity. Here’s when to go I wouldn’t go so far as to say a dead antelope buck smells good, but I don’t mind their odor a bit. There’s a hint of petting zoo goat — not necessarily repulsive in itself — mixed with dry Western air and sage and musk. All combined, somehow, the smell is sweet, and for me it always triggers good memories of hunting adventures far from home. Just about every Easterner ever to buy a deer tag has at some point dreamed of hunting out West. I talk to eager prospects every year, and many of them want to come out swinging, with designs on an elk hunt in the mountains. I love elk hunting, especially in September. But I always temper any encouragement I give with this reality: If you’re not going guided, you’re probably not going to kill an elk. Not your first year. If you’re prepared to pony up for a guided elk hunt, go for it. But for the price of even a cheap elk hunt, you can book two top-end antelope hunts. And if you have the gumption for a DIY trip, success comes much easier on a pronghorn hunt. We can talk about experiences and beautiful sunrises and all that … but I’ve always found the trip home to be better with a cooler of meat in tow. First Western hunt or not, a pronghorn is a critter that I can’t praise enough. They’re abundant and accessible. Their behavior is fascinating, and the country where they live is plenty wild — but also not likely to kill you. Their reputation as table fare is mixed, but there’s no call for that. I’ve never had one that wasn’t fine eating. Just don’t expect the bland flavor of corn-fed whitetail. My buddy Miles Fedinec, who’s been a Colorado guide and outfitter his entire adult life, agrees. He’s an antelope nut, having guided a few clients to some of the state’s all-time largest bucks. “Antelope are the most underrated, overlooked opportunity we have,” he says. “You can come out here, see the West, hunt when the weather is nice, and in all likelihood, go home with a trophy animal that’s great to eat. What’s not to love about that?” I love it so much that I’m headed to Colorado again this fall, on my seventh pronghorn hunt. I’ve chased them on public land and private, all over Colorado and Wyoming, with bows, crossbows, muzzleloaders, and centerfire rifles. I’ve had a ball at it every single time, and have always gotten a buck, too. Antelope season has phases just like any other season. I’ve hunted them all, but what you’re after from the experience dictates the timing of your hunt. If you’re looking at a calendar, here’s what to know. Early Archery Mid-August to Early September Pros: With the right conditions and a good setup, bowhunters can expect to see numerous animals, with high-odds shot opportunities. Archery seasons typically open mid-August (Aug. 15 in both Colorado and Wyoming), and the most productive way to hunt antelope at the time is from a ground blind over a water hole. Outfitters will have scouted options and set blinds ahead of time. If you’re hunting on your own, plan to spend a couple of days on the front end, scouting water sources with optics and trail cameras, to figure out where to place your hide. Good thing is, pop-up ground blinds don’t seem to bother the animals much. Go early, because the hotter and drier the weather, the better the action will be. Bring a small cooler with lunch and plenty of drinks, a full charge on your phone, and more than a couple of good books. I once read the biography of an undercover agent who infiltrated an outlaw biker gang, cover to cover, in an antelope blind. I’d no more than closed it when I looked up and saw a buck coming. If the conditions are good, you can expect to see plenty of animals, and to get a close-range shot. The action typically is at its best midmorning, but I’ve seen antelope walk in for a drink at all hours of the day. This style of hunting isn’t especially difficult, but it is effective, and a whole lot of fun if the conditions are favorable. If getting an antelope with a bow is your main goal, try to plan your hunt before Sept. 1. Much later than that, and you run a risk of cool Western mornings and autumn rains spoiling the action. The Rut Mid-September to Early October Pros: This is the rut, and it’s action packed. It’s also overlooked, since everyone else is elk hunting at the time. Cons: It’s tougher to fill a tag now with archery gear, since water-hole hunting is typically less productive and movement is less predictable. As much fun as hunting over a water hole can be, the rut is my favorite time to hunt antelope. Antelope are aggressive critters that fight and chase all over creation when love is in the air. Hunting from a blind can still work. It doesn’t hurt to have a water hole close by, but a fence gap between two pastures can really help seal the deal. One of the West’s great mysteries is that antelope hate jumping fences, even though they’re perfectly capable. I’ve watched them pace back and forth, for an hour and a mile, alongside a woven-wire fence. But a slight gap in the fence that they can squeeze through or under creates the equivalent of a whitetail hunter’s perfect pinch point. “You can come out here, see the West, hunt when the weather is nice, and in all likelihood, go home with a trophy animal that’s great to eat. What’s not to love about that?” — Miles Fedinec One morning a few years ago in Wyoming, I was in a blind 25 yards from just such a gap, waiting with a crossbow. I had a little buck on my side of the fence that had been farting around most of the morning. On the other side, well over a mile away, I could see a loose herd with a couple of good bucks chasing does, beating the snot out of each other, and generally acting like amorous antelope. I watched them for hours until finally, one of the bucks broke and began heading my way, presumably to find something else to chase or fight. I could tell he was headed toward the fence gap. The little buck in front of me saw him, too, and stood at full alert. The big buck noticed him and set into a trot, and then a gallop, at that fence gap to run the little buck off. I shot him just as he slowed to cross the wire. You can have a lot of fun by spot-and-stalk and decoy hunting this time of year, too. Keep eyes on doe groups with a good buck tending them. Don’t get discouraged if he runs off after a doe or smaller buck, because he will come back. Use dips in terrain to work in as close as you dare. If you’re archery hunting, try showing him a decoy, most of which are made to look like subordinate bucks. It’s a lot like reaping a gobbler behind a fan, and if it happens, it usually happens fast. Late Season Mid-October to the End Pros: Rifle seasons are typically open, and bucks are sometimes gathered in bachelor groups. Though there are some earlier opportunities, if you book a rifle hunt, odds are it’ll happen in early October. The rut’s waning by this point in the season, and animals are beginning to gather in larger herds, where they’ll remain through the winter. Still, it’s common to see a dominant buck with a large harem of does, especially early in the month. By midmonth, you’re liable to see all sorts of combos, but bachelor groups of bucks start hanging around together, too. I had a heck of a good time last year in late October in northeast Wyoming, where the bucks were grouped up. It was spitting snow and cold at daybreak, but it warmed up by midmorning, when we got on a group of about a dozen bucks, including two solid shooters. After two failed stalks, we finally crawled up to within 80 yards of them early that afternoon, for an easy shot. Many people think of rifle hunting antelope as a long-range game, and if that’s your thing, the chance is there. But a careful stalk through pretty country is the fun part of it. If you have hills to work with and a little patience, it’s easy enough to slip to within 200 yards of them. A blown stalk doesn’t always mean the end of the hunt, either. Give the animals time to settle down, and if you can locate them again, try them. TOP STOPS So where should you go? There are antelope all over the West (as far east as western Nebraska), but you can’t go wrong with these tried-and-true destinations. Wyoming It’s often said that Wyoming has more pronghorns than people, and after multiple trips there, I don’t doubt it. For pure opportunity, it’s the place to be. Success rates statewide exceed 85%. Outfitters are numerous, or can try your hand at the draw system. There are 115 different hunting areas, and as you might expect, some areas are more difficult to draw than others. The north-central part of the state, near Gillette, is where I’ve hunted most. It has a crazy number of animals but more limited public access. Colorado Archery hunters can buy over-the-counter tags and hunt many units in eastern Colorado. Public land is a little tough to come by there, but there are plenty of animals and outfitters available. It’s wide open and flat, making spot-and-stalk hunting especially challenging. Northwest Colorado is better known as a trophy destination. It’s hillier country, and an easier place to sneak in close. Getting a tag to hunt public land might take a few preference points, but it’s worth the wait. Outfitters in the area frequently have landowner vouchers available for securing a license. You just have to book before they’re all used up. New MexicoThe world-record buck — a 96 4/8 monster shot by Mike Gallo in 2013 — was killed in Socorro County. New Mexico has a reputation for producing big critters, and antelope are no exception. Public draw hunts are available (apply in March), and outfitted hunts on private land are surprisingly affordable.

Post: 16 September 11:09

How to Hunt Alaska on a Budget Have You Ever Tried This? Alaska hunting is the stuff of dreams, yet many convince themselves it’s beyond their reach. This is easy to understand, as guided Alaska hunts are some of the most expensive around. Single-species hunts for mountain goat, dall sheep and brown bear run anywhere from $9,000 to $14,000. A guided hunt for even “commonplace” barren ground caribou might finance a multi-species hunt in southern Africa. For the average working stiff, a do-it-yourself hunt is the only way to enjoy such an expedition. If daunted by such an adventure, especially its costs, I understand. Yet, after 10 Alaska forays of my own, I’m here to say that with plenty of advanced planning and a meager savings-account grab-stake, an Alaska hunt is well within grasp. While the sexiest Alaskan species require the non-resident to hire an outfitter by law, many don’t. These include barren ground caribou, Alaska-Yukon moose, Sitka blacktail deer and black bear — all animals you can hunt on your own for a considerable savings. Drop-Camp Options The first-time Alaska adventurer is advised to book a drop-camp hunt. This involves hiring a flying service to ferry you and gear to productive ground (of their choosing). Various degrees of services are offered, price adjusted accordingly. At its most basic, you’re simply taxied in and dropped off, with your own truck. Or, opt for a fully outfitted camp, all necessary camping gear and food provided. You bring only a sleeping bag, duds and hunting gear. Other options include a mid-hunt visit, in case meat should need to be flown out, or more importantly, should you require a move. These options increase expenses but also provide cheap insurance against bum experiences. When dealing with a reputable operator, drop camps provide a better chance of arriving in the right place at the right time. The best pilots keep a close eye on game movements and whereabouts to assure they’re able to set clients in the best areas. The best flying services are also typically willing to spend a bit of extra time in the air on arrival, giving you a better grasp of the land, perhaps spotting game, before landing. Drop-camp arrangements are normally charged at a flat rate per person, even if additional meat-hauling trips are required following a successful hunt. Shop carefully. Unfortunately, cheats abound in all walks of life, and Alaska bush services have more than their share. The unscrupulous outfits simply dump hunters where it’s convenient for them, not necessarily where game is most abundant. Ask for a list of references, preferably recent bookings — hunters from both successful and unsuccessful ventures. If they’re reluctant to provide such information, find an operator who will. References simply assure fewer surprises, confirming services are as presented and hidden costs minimal. Talking to someone who’s been there also helps you pack more efficiently. Where to Hunt? We’ve researched a few places to help you get started on your Alaskan adventure. Pick your species and then dive in to the places below: Moose Marshes Anchorage: Stony, Hoholitna and Mulchatna rivers and the Lake Clark region. Hunting is complicated by September hunt dates, typically concluding before the rut begins. Increase your odds of calling success by arriving late in the season. As with any gun-dog training, simple commands work best. Hand signals can do plenty as you approach the waterfowl-holding location. And at the moment of truth, just before the flush, you can do many things. Cordova: Some behemoth bulls, but non-residents are limited to a single unit and limited number of landing sites. Success dependent on hunting pressure in those few places. Contact Cordova Air for more info. McGrath & Kotzebue: Near McGrath; Iditarod, Innoko, Galena and Yukon rivers top producers of trophy bulls. Some float-only areas restrict fly-in. Areas near Kotzeboe and Brooks Range worthwhile but include added transportation costs, though better odds of rut action. Caribou Coverts Anchorage: The easily-accessible Mulchatna herd has crashed and success is low in traditional areas. Super Cub access can get you into new migration patterns at added costs. Alaska Peninsula: King Salmon area provides quality caribou hunting and trophy potential. Some Peninsula islands worth investigating; little hunting pressure but increased transportation costs. Kotzeboe & Brooks Range: The stable Porcupine herd offers super hunting, but once again, added transportation costs and travel time make these areas less popular. Trophy quality is top-notch. Pipeline Haul Road, Fairbanks: Rare opportunity to hunt from a rented vehicle; bowhunting only due to adjacent Alaska Pipeline. Consult area game biologist for best dates. Black Bear Bush Alaska Southeast: Areas surrounding Ketchikan and Juneau allow Pacific Northwest residents to drive. Prince of Wales Island hunted via network of highways, ferry system and logging roads. Boats allow access to remote ocean shores. Spring baiting legal and productive. Fall spot-and-stalk also highly productive, especially while cruising remote seashores, or hunting salmon streams from August to September. Cordova & Valdez: Extremely productive, glassing open hillsides of new growth (spring) or berries (fall). Concentrate efforts along salmon rivers during August and September, though brown bears are common (and very aggressive). Deer Destinations Alaska Southeast: Accessing lesser-known islands is highly productive, but costly. Look to Trinity, Amook, Zarembo and Sitkinak islands — and others surrounding these. Cordova: In general, Hinchinbrook and Montague islands are hunted hard and trophy quality is poor, though backpacking high and far from access can net bigger bucks. Prince of Wales Island: Consistently produces top-end bucks, though hunting complicated by thick vegetation. Backpack into high alpine areas immediately following August opener or hunt low during the November rut. Hunting accessed via 4WD. Kodiak Island: Large die-offs during the past few years, but big bucks still taken and success fair. Open terrain makes hunting easier. Areas on the southern end is best, but include costly floatplane rides. Areas close to Kodiak City allow access from boat/vehicle, but hunting is difficult and the limit is one deer.

Post: 19 August 09:47

Hunting regs, deer hunting licenses now available Deer hunting licenses can be purchased starting today and the 2022 Minnesota hunting regulations are now available here. Print copies of the regulations will be available in early August wherever licenses are sold. When deer hunters venture out into fields and forests this fall, they will find healthy deer populations faring well in most of Minnesota, ample harvest opportunities, and a continued commitment to managing chronic wasting disease management adaptively statewide. “We’re excited about deer hunting this year,” said Kelly Straka, wildlife section manager for the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. “Hunters in 20% of our deer permit areas will have increased opportunities for harvest, and opportunities in 70% of DPAs remain unchanged from last year. In some areas of northern Minnesota, severe winter conditions have impacted low deer numbers, so hunter opportunity in these areas is designed to help stabilize or increase those populations.” Eight more DPAs included in the hunt. Hunters will also have more license options for the early antlerless season. Increased bag limits or lottery permits in 28 DPAs, the same limits in 90 DPAs and decreased limits in 12 DPAs. In addition to deer seasons, hunters can participate in special deer hunts. The DNR, municipalities and organizations across Minnesota offer opportunities to hunt at special times and in areas that might regularly be closed to hunting. Participation in these hunts is limited and often requires special registration. More information is available here. Hunters can get the information they need for each DPA by using the interactive deer map found here. By clicking within the borders of a DPA on the map, hunters can access a “make a plan” link that takes them directly to the DNR’s Make a Plan tool, where they can view the steps deer hunters in that DPA must follow to legally harvest deer. The tool also provides information for determining where and how to submit a sample for CWD testing and whether sampling is mandatory in the DPA. Firearm and muzzleloader hunters who want to harvest antlerless deer in a DPA designated as lottery need to purchase their license by Thursday, Sept. 8. Hunters who purchase their license by Sept. 8 are automatically entered into the lottery for the DPA or special hunt area they declare. No application is needed to take antlerless deer in permit areas with either sex, two-deer limit, three-deer limit, or five-deer limit designations.

Post: 15 August 10:19

How to Hunt Africa on a Budget Chances Are You Can Do It Cheaper Than a Premium Elk Hunt My palms hurt and my knees were bloody from crawling over rocks. My legs ached. My lungs were threatening to quit on me if I had to climb one more mountain chasing a herd that was skittish to the point of paranoia. The guide and I had pursued them up and over so many mountains and glassed them from so many hidden vantage points that I had no idea how much territory we had covered or how we’d ever find our way back to the truck. When the shot opportunity finally came, it was a long one — 320 yards from our spot on a hill to where the bull was feeding on the opposite ridge. “Hold a foot high,” the guide said, and that turned out to be dead accurate. The cows scattered in a panic at the blast, and not long afterward we were standing over a mature bull I had worked harder for than any animal I’ve taken before or since. Sounds like a fairly typical elk hunt, right? Except it wasn’t an elk and I wasn’t in Colorado or New Mexico. It was a red hartebeest, and I was in South Africa. Afford a Dream Hunt That’s because an African safari is much less expensive than most people realize. In fact, it’s a good bit cheaper than a typical outfitted elk hunt. Don’t believe me? Look at the numbers. I hunted with Tollie’s African Safaris and booked the hunt through SHE Expeditions, a full-service booking agent. Over the course of five days, I shot that red hartebeest, a springbuck and a beautiful impala ram. Tollie’s outfit is no bargain-basement backwoods lodge — it’s a top-rate place with excellent food, comfortable accommodations and luxuries such as a spa and a first-class taxidermist on-site. It’s also almost entirely free range; an extraordinarily rare find in South Africa. Total cost for the trip breaks down like this: Lodging, food, and all necessary hunting services for five days: $2,250 Springbuck trophy fee: $400 Impala trophy fee: $520 Hartebeest (or kudu, gemsbok, duiker or wildebeest) trophy fee: $1,200 That’s $4,370. Add in airfare and a few odds and ends such as immunizations, tips and gun permit fees and you’re coming in around $7,500 for the whole deal. It’s not cheap, but compare it to a stateside elk hunt at a comparable lodge. SHE Expeditions recommends a New Mexico lodge that runs in the average price range for an outfitted elk hunt. Total cost for this trip: Lodging, food and five days of hunting: $10,000 Hunting license: $550 Meat processing not included Tack on tips and the cost of getting there and you could be pushing $12,500 or more. And you can shoot one animal as opposed to the three (or more) you could have shot in Africa. Additional Costs My mounts were done in Africa by Tollie’s taxidermy service and the cost was about what my local Alabama taxidermist would charge. On top of that, I had airfreight and customs broker fees of about $1,300 for three wall pedestal mounts. Other potential costs for a South Africa trip are firearm permits fees (around $100); immunizations you might need; additional airline baggage fees and the cost of any extra services or day trips you’d like to tack on. I recommend the hot-stone massage at Tollie’s spa and a day on the beach in Jeffreys Bay. Don't Miss: Hunting Eland in South Africa Know Before You Go The services of a booking agent are highly recommended. I booked through SHE Expeditions, which caters to hunters with a focus on female- and family-friendly locations. They handled every detail of the hunt, and believe me, there are dozens of little, but very important, details that you will overlook without such a service. It does not cost you anything to use their booking services, and they are absolutely invaluable, especially if this is your first hunting trip abroad. Whatever booking agent you use, make sure the agent has personally hunted at the lodge you plan to go to. The Johannesburg airport is not a safe or secure place and corruption among the employees (and police) is a problem. There are “safe house” services you will want to use if you must stay in the area overnight; ask your booking agent if they don’t mention it. We used the Afton Guest House, and its representatives met us at the Johannesburg airport and escorted us through the process of collecting our firearms and gave us safe lodging for the night until our connecting flight the next day. Don’t ask me how I know this, but its services are absolutely essential to keeping you out of jail should the slightest thing go wrong with your firearms permits — and there are many, many things that can go wrong. For that reason:

Post: 2 August 21:58

Hunting with Hawks Perhaps you'll never try falconry yourself. Katherine Browne once thought the same thing. But these days, the Prois pro-staff coordinator and licensed falconer does her small-game hunting with a raptor named Hades Katherine Browne’s hunting partner, Hades, can be a little high strung and aggressive at times, but Browne overlooks it. Hades is pretty good at what he does, and that behavior is typical for his kind. A northern goshawk, Hades is a member of the raptor family, and his natural maneuverability and speed make him a top predator and excellent hunting companion. When Browne, the dealer relations and pro-staff coordinator for Prois Hunting Apparel, is not working, you can often find the licensed falconer training Hades to hunt ducks, pheasant, grouse and quail in the woods and fields by her home. How does a young woman, such as Browne, become a falconer? “I have always been intrigued by raptors, and I love the idea of being a part of something wild and ancient,” Browne says. “When I’m working with my birds, I feel like I’m a part of the drama of nature that unfolds daily. I love working in a symbiotic relationship with a bird of prey, and I love that once the bird is trained, it has a choice to leave me while it’s flying free.” After watching a TV show of two men hunting rabbits with red-tailed hawks, Browne decided “if they can do it, I can do it.” She devoured literature on the subject, and after moving to Oregon five years ago, found a sponsor, built a mews (hawk house) and took her test to become a falconer. After trapping and training her first red-tailed hawk, she became hopelessly addicted to falconry. “Being a licensed falconer is a huge commitment,” she says. “You must train with a sponsor, take a test and have knowledge of raptor disease, health issues and care. Falconry is more of a lifestyle than a hobby, especially for someone like me who hunts with her bird five to six times a week. Not only does the bird require feeding and care, but you must weigh it daily, calculate how much to feed it so it will be at hunting weight when you fly it and constantly monitor its health and condition. You must provide your bird with whole-bodied animals, a bath pan filled with fresh water, and safe housing and equipment. It is unfair to try to keep a bird of prey if you don’t have the time to commit.” TRAPPING THE BIRD To trap her raptors, Browne often uses what is called a bal-chatri trap (BC), which is essentially a weighted-down wire cage with monofilament fishing line nooses along the outside. The bait animal is placed inside the trap. When the hawk lands on the trap, its feet become entangled in the nooses. Browne drives the roads in search of a raptor to trap. When she spots a bird, she slows the vehicle down almost to a stop and drops the trap in the bird’s vicinity. Then she drives a couple hundred yards down the road and sits and watches the bird and the trap with binoculars. BC traps need to be monitored constantly because after the bird is trapped, it can be injured or attacked by predators if left unattended. In fact, it is illegal to leave a BC unattended (it’s also highly illegal to trap birds of prey without the proper permit). “Once the bird is snared, I run up and grab the hawk, preferably without getting footed or bitten,” Browne says. “Trapping is by far one of the most exciting things I’ve ever done.” Browne says once you trap a bird, you must determine if it’s a legal bird to keep and if you want to keep it. Passage (juvenile) birds that have left the nest but are still in their first year of life are legal to take. You can also take eyasses (chicks) after you become a general falconer. You’re limited to either trapping a juvenile red-tailed hawk or an American kestrel for the first two years of your falconry training. Check your state's falconry laws for additional rules and regulations. “I am currently a general falconer, which requires at least two years of falconry experience,” Browne says. “My northern goshawk is a much more challenging species to train than a red-tailed hawk or kestrel.” The longer you are a falconer, the more species are open to you. The most challenging birds are reserved for master falconers who have been at the sport for at least five years. TRAINING THE BIRD Not only is each species different in terms of training, but so is each individual bird. And, even though there are many methods and schools of thought on training, she uses a few basic steps with the birds she’s trained. “Perhaps the most important part of this process is weighing the bird daily on an accurate scale,” Browne says. “Falconry is all about weight management and figuring out the flying weight, which is the weight at which the bird is most responsive.” Unless the bird is very thin when trapped, most falconers begin reducing their bird’s weight slowly and steadily during the training process and recording the bird’s responses in a log book along with the amount and type of food it’s eating. When the falconer first arrives home with the bird, he or she begins a process called “manning.” During this time, the bird gets used to being indoors with the trainer. The trainer touches and carries the hawk around as much as possible. “When I brought Ares, my last red-tail, home and removed the hood, he sat on my fist with his eyes wide, wings spread, feathers puffed out and his tongue sticking out,” Browne says. “He was terrified. This is pretty typical behavior for a freshly trapped hawk. Initially you want the room to be dimly lit and for things to be quiet and calm. After sitting for a moment, Ares bated (jumped from the fist) and hung upside-down by his jesses (the leather straps around a falconry bird’s feet). I call this stage the bat-bird stage. My red-tail Athena hung upside-down most of the time I worked with her for the first three days. Luckily, Ares caught on faster, and after gently helping him back on the glove a few times, he stopped hanging like a bat and started hopping back up to the fist on his own.” Browne explains that the next step is getting the hawk to eat from her hands, which can be a difficult task. She’ll rub the meat on the side of a raptor’s beak causing it to bite reflexively. When hunger takes over, the bird will swallow the meat. Every time Browne offers her new bird a piece of meat, she whistles. By making the same noise each time, the bird will start to recognize the sound as an indicator for food. Like training any animal, consistency is incredibly important. After the bird learns to eat from the trainer’s fingers, it is then trained to eat from a gloved hand. Next the bird learns how to hop to the glove, which is Browne’s favorite step. “This is the leap of faith where your bird makes the jump to your fist,” Browne says. “I place the bird on a solid perch (I favor a saw horse) and hold my garnished glove (glove with a piece of meat on it) just out of reach so the hawk has to stretch out to get it.” Next the bird learns how to fly to the trainer inside the home. Browne says this step is a lot of fun as well. She uses a long leash and calls the bird to her for longer and longer indoor flights. Once she accomplishes this step, she takes the bird outdoors. “When I first take my bird outside after working with it indoors, it’ll often get what I call ‘blue sky syndrome’,” Browne says. It’ll see the sky and will try to fly off. At this stage I often have to reduce its weight and do some shorter flights than I was doing indoors. I’ll also introduce the lure, which is my safety net while flying the bird. I attach meat to a padded leather boomerang-shaped lure. Every time I feed the bird from the lure it should get a good meal so when it sees the lure, it will come readily, even if its weight is a little high.” Browne explains that as she flies the bird outside, she increases the length of the creance (a long tether), and as she reduces the bird’s weight, she watches for an immediate response to her whistle. A quick response is a good indicator that the bird is approaching its flying or hunting weight. Once it comes without hesitation, it’s time to cut it loose and start hunting. THE HUNTING Since juvenile birds have already been out on their own, they know how to hunt, but Browne says she has to teach the bird that it will have more opportunities at game and more success if it hunts with her. “I train my bird to see me as a partner, not a predator,” Browne says. “I have to be very careful not to give the impression that I will steal food from it. I have to develop a relationship with my bird so that I can approach it on prey and dispatch the prey without it carrying it away, hiding it from me or showing aggression toward me.” Browne says falconers often have to train their birds to pursue the quarry of their choice and build their confidence that they can be successful catching this particular animal. Many juvenile birds have only caught mice and small ground quarry and do not necessarily see larger game as food. Trainers often set up a couple easier hunting scenarios to build the bird’s confidence at catching larger prey, such as rabbits. This is called “entering your bird.” “There is so much work and dedication involved with training a falcon,” Browne says. “That’s why it is so important that you go through the proper channels to become a falconer. It’s hard work, but if you are passionate and committed, it’s more than worthwhile. During the first two years, beginner falconers are required to have a more experienced falconer as a sponsor. The knowledge you gain from your sponsor in your first two years (or more) as an apprentice falconer is irreplaceable. If you’re interested in pursuing this sport, start off by reading one of the many books on training and hunting with different birds of prey. My favorite is North American Falconry & Hunting Hawks by BeeBe and Webster, which many, including myself, consider the bible of North American falconry. Take the time and do it right. You won’t regret the effort and time you put into being a falconer. We get to see things that most people will never see in a lifetime. ”

Post: 27 July 18:13

Hunters be advised, remaining big game hunting licenses go on sale next week STATEWIDE, Colo. (KKCO) - Hunters mark your calendars for the first Tuesday in August to take a shot at any remaining big game hunting licenses after the primary and secondary draws. Starting August 2 at 9 a.m., remaining licenses placed on the leftover list will be available for purchase. Licenses will go on sale online, over the phone, and in-person at CPW offices and sales locations across the state at the same time. Colorado Parks and Wildlife stated in a press release that prospective hunters ordering online will have the same shot as someone first in line at a physical sales location. Limited licenses will be distributed on a first come first served basis, and this is the first opportunity Colorado hunters will have to get a big game hunting license outside of the draw process. Over-the-counter licenses for elk, bear, archery pronghorn, and whitetail deer will go on sale at the same time. Licenses that will be available include: · Limited licenses leftover after the draws for elk, deer, pronghorn, and bear. · Limited elk, deer, pronghorn, and bear licenses that someone drew but did not pay for during the secondary draw. · Limited licenses that were returned for a refund or preference point restoration. · Over-the-counter licenses for elk, archery pronghorn, whitetail deer, and bear. CPW encourages prospective hunters to prepare for sales day to increase their chances of getting their desired license. It suggests to prepare ahead of time by logging into their online system a few days prior to check or correct your information, having your hunt codes and credit/debit card number ready, and to write down all hunt codes you’re interested in and list them with your most coveted licenses first. It also warns that people calling the CPW sales line for their purchase may experience extended wait times and to have all of your information prepped and ready, as the sales line staff will not be able to look up hunt codes. Only one purchase can be made at a time, so CPW suggests to use multiple devices if buying for multiple people.

Post: 27 July 10:34

How to Introduce Your Older Hunting Dog to a Puppy Some Tips for Young and Old Dogs Living Together You're likely pretty excited about bringing your new puppy home. Your older hunting dog might not share the same feelings. Ways to introduce your adult dog to the new pup in your life follow here. Short, Positive Interactions Your adult dog has learned plenty in your time together. It's the pup that needs some schooling. Dogs of course have instinctive ways of sorting out the pecking order. An older canine has earned territorial rights over your home, yard, truck and where you exercise (and hunt) this dog. Enter the puppy. S/he has no rules and is full of endless energy. The older dog is set in his or her ways. A hard-charging, wildly running pup changes this. Read their body language as they interact. The older dog will likely growl when the pup pushes things too far. Slowly, surely, the young dog should get the message, and show increasing respect for its elder. You've introduced this wild child into the mix. The older dog will also do its share of the teaching. This effort takes time, energy and patience. Territorial Respect You likely feed you older dog in the same spot, at around the same times. This canine expects and appreciates it with a tail wag and alert eyes, full of anticipation. The pup might just be thinking "food" when it hears you scoop from the kibble bags (one for the young one; one for the older dog). They might dash in fast with no respect to the older dog's food or eating spot. This can spell trouble. Anticipate it. This is a teaching moment for the pup. If possible, always feed them separately at first, in different locations. Control the young dog as the older dog eats first. Or, if you don't feed the two at the same time, still maintain separate areas, as the older dog will likely check out the pup's new food bowl and water dish. Again, this will take time, too. Outside of feedings, older indoor dogs often like to relax in comfortable chairs or couches. Teach the puppy to respect these locations. The elder canine will also do plenty as this goes, expressing a hard look, low warning growl and even more displeasure. Again, the pup should get the message, though you want to ensure its safety while learning the ropes. Browning Insulated Dog Crate Bedding in Realtree MAX-5 Time Together Indoor dogs interact in a smaller space, confined by the limits of your home. Often "trouble" occurs here; less so outdoors, especially as they begin to hunt together. Again, reflecting back on the short, positive interaction theme, combined with the territorial respect notion, the dogs – older and younger – will begin to accept each other. The key is to give each dog a steady amount of your time, both separately and together. Pay attention to how they interact. Gently but firmly, using verbal commands of "no," "sit," "stay," and "leave it," teach the puppy to respect the older canine. Eventually, they'll learn to accept the other, or at least define limits to the relationship.

Post: 26 July 11:01

How to Stalk a Pronghorn Antelope The heat of the merciless sun pounded the back of my neck as I glassed through the small gap of the lone cedar bush I was crouched behind. His handsomely colored face and long curved black horns seemed to fill the viewfinder as I studied every inch of him. He was a dandy goat, and there was nothing more I wanted to do at that moment than wrap my hands around his black, 16-inch horns. This ground-crawling, torturous stalk began some two hours ago, and needless to say my body ached from the countless gouges, pokes and prods from the seemingly endless supply of needle-sharp plants that inhabit this semi-arid landscape. Although I had whittled the mile down to a mere 110 yards, I could go no farther. It wasn’t because of my lack of sheer will, there was just no cover between me and my bedded prize. I could easily have reached out and touched him with the help of modern ballistics, but I receive no satisfaction from that fact. I wanted to get archery-close, and that meant somehow closing the gap at least another 60 yards before I would consider a solid broadside shot. I had been watching him on and off for the past couple of days, and he was finally in a position that offered me this sneaky opportunity. He had been lugging around with a few other bucks, but now they were no where to be found. Living the bachelor’s life seemed to suit him for the moment, so I took full advantage of it. It also didn’t hurt that his two buddies had found greener pastures elsewhere. All I could do was wait him out and hope when he got up from his midday nap he would wonder my way. Keeping my fingers crossed, I nocked an arrow and waited. And before I could get comfortable on the jagged ground, he abruptly stood up. I tightened the grip on my bow anticipating a possible shot opportunity. He stood stiff-legged for several minutes scanning the parched landscape. It was as if he was peeling away every ounce of cover looking for a hint of danger. Suddenly he turned and started hot-footing it in my direction, and before I could wipe the sweat racing down my forehead, the 110-yard gulf that was once between us had vanished—50, 40, 30, 20, 18, 17, 16 flashed my rangefinder—and this Pope and Young candidate was still coming. With only a quartering-to shot I rose to both knees and pressed my Hoyt into service. His eyes almost popped out of his head when he caught my movement, and in one fluid motion he jerked back, turned and darted away running in a semi-circle. Not completely trusting his eyes, he skidded to a stop and looked back at the moving cedar bush to confirm what his eyes had suspected. Estimating the distance at 45 yards, I released, only to see my arrow harmlessly skip into the dirt under his belly. With a wheezing snort he turned and his hooves never seemed to hit the ground as he jetted away toward safer pastures, leaving me shaking my head and wondering what could have been. That was my third stalk of the day, and although I didn’t get to hang his handsome head in my trophy room, it was a great experience to file away. It wasn’t until the third day and stalk number nine that I claimed my high-desert New Mexico prize, making this pronghorn experience one of my most action-packed and memorable bowhunts to date. Pronghorns have picked up many nicknames over the years to include speed goats, prairie racers, sage rockets and the common antelope just to name a few. Although these names depict the sure-footed, 55-plus miles-per-hour speed they possess, it’s the pronghorns stark reddish tan and white coat, black muzzles, and ink-black curved horns that make them the most colorful and exotic North American big game animal. Not only is their African-like appearance and cheetah-like speed unique, but they are only found in the high desert West and flat grassy regions of the eastern plains, making this American original a prime target for any stick and string trophy hunter. Because of the flat, relatively open and arid regions they inhabit, matching wits with these high desert kings can be challenging, but consistent success can be found by matching the right hunting tactics to the given situation. The three main methods most seasoned pronghorn hunters utilize are ground-crawling stalks, deceptive decoying and laying in wait at a well-used water hole. There’s no question that ambushing one at the watering-hole beneath the August heat is the most successful method, but decoying at the right time makes for some heart-pounding excitement and breaking into their comfort zone with a clean stalk adds a thrill all its own. All methods will put you archery-close and should be considered if you’re dreaming of hanging a tag on these American originals. Just Add Water No question about it, hunting over water is the most effective way to put a trophy pronghorn on the wall, as well as put some excellent protein on the table. Given the arid high desert and blazing-hot prairie climate these American icons call home, water is a daily necessity, and it’s usually only a matter of time before an unsuspecting buck that deserves your tag wonders in. As easy as this may sound, there is usually a catch, and typically that catch is measured in time, and lots of it. Just a couple of seasons ago, I sat under the blazing Nevada sun in my Ameristep blind for six, fourteen hour days, waiting on the right buck to show up. Needless to say, I was more than eager to release an arrow on the morning of the seventh day, hour 87 no less, on a fine Silver State goat. Although this may sound like a no-fun, no-brain style of hunt, it isn’t. Not only does the water draw in every critter in the area for all-day waterhole entertainment but also the long hours can instill and develop a mental toughness few hunts can. As good as popping up a portable blind on a liquid oasis can be for antelope, if the opportunity exists, the elevation of a wrought iron tree, aka windmill, can be an exceptional option. Not only does the elevation give you a bird’s-eye view of the country but it also gives you an opportunity to size up your buck before he makes it to the drink. In fact, I killed my first P&Y antelope from a New Mexico windmill, and I watched him for over 20 minutes before I finally sent an arrow his way. I would not have had that opportunity if I had been on the ground. Another benefit of a windmill is the constant motion, clangs and groans it put out. Naturally these sharp-eyed residents are used to it so I was able to get away with more movement. Double Take For heart-pumping, fast-paced, all-day action, it’s hard to beat the use of a decoy. When the time is right, usually around late August to mid September, nothing can beat the shot opportunities a decoy provides or the sheer excitement when you add one to the antelope experience. One of the first times I used a decoy was on a worn-out Colorado buck during the September rut. From a distance I watched him diligently protecting his harem of does from two smaller bucks. From each side they grazed innocently closer, attempting not to arouse the suspicions of the herd buck. When the herd buck focused on one, the other would come closer. With patience lost, this high-desert bad boy exploded, tearing off in pursuit of his closest foe. With a sense of urgency the smaller buck scrambled across the dusty flat hoping to elude the bulkier herd buck. However, by the time he finished chasing one off, the other would be closer than ever to his does, and he would make a mad dash again, repeating the process. This was the perfect opportunity to slip in with a decoy, so in I hustled in their direction. After sneaking to within 150 yards of the panting buck, I popped up my Montana Decoy antelope buck decoy, and in an instant he caught a glimpse and headed my way. At first his trot was slow, but in mere seconds dust was billowing in a stream behind him. He was coming fast — too fast to put it bluntly — and I barely had enough time to draw my bow. When he hit the 42 yard mark, he skidded to a stop facing me no less. For nearly a minute he stared my decoy down without ever offering a shot, and as quickly as he came, he sped away when he knew the gig was up. The key to success with a decoy is slipping close enough to the right buck, and although that distance varies to the buck’s temperament and situation, usually it’s around 100 yards. Sometimes getting this close can be tough, but if you do just pop up that decoy and you might have an angry goat in your lap. The Sneak Without question, trying to get the job done on a critter with 8X eyes, that lives in relatively open terrain, with the natural limitations archery equipment offers, makes stalking antelope one of bowhunting’s ultimate challenges. Although it’s one of the toughest ways to hunt these speed demons, with enough stalks — and a little luck — it can be done with some success. Throughout the years, I’ve been fortunate to sneak close enough to a handful of bucks that deserved my arrow. And although most have ended with me watching the buck’s dust trail billow across the county, I’ve been able to bury a few arrows into the shoulder of some unsuspecting goats. One aspect that has been consistent in all of my successful stalks is the broken and uneven terrain I chose to hunt in. It’s true, most antelope live in relatively open country where grassy flats are king and are just not conducive for stalking. However, badlands-type rugged terrain, cactus flats and rolling sagebrush hills of the West hold their share of bucks, and it’s this broken landscape that will give the willing bowhunter a solid shot at arrowing a buck. Although this type of country usually only offers shallow ground-crawling, knee-busting attempts, and can take hours to complete in some cases, the reward is the satisfaction of knowing that you got close enough, despite the outcome. Another aspect to consistent success is choosing loner or gypsy bucks to zero in on. It goes without saying one set of eyes is easier to sneak in on than two or more sets, so picking that unsociable outsider can be key to punching your tag. Don’t forget to keep the wind right and always approach from behind if you can. Because pronghorns have eyes that protrude from the sides of their heads, they have nearly 300 degrees of move-catching eyesight, and it’s the rare occasion that you will fool them. Regardless of how you decide to chase these sage rockets, all offer their own uniqueness and challenges, and it’s the consistent bowhunter who seems to get it done.

Post: 12 July 10:48

How to Track a Buck in the Snow Have You Ever Slipped Up on a Deer in the Snow? No doubt about it, the vast majority of whitetail hunting today is done from some type of elevated platform – treestand, tripod or shooting house. That wasn’t always the case. To this day, many northwoods hunters still practice the age-old art of tracking in the snow. So can you, and here are a few tips to help you along the trail. To follow a track you first need to find one, and the more ground you cover the better the odds. Typically, the big woods hunters will drive the backwoods roads before daylight. These are often dirt logging roads, some accessible only by 4WD vehicle, which is what you want. Less Traffic, More Deer You’ll usually find an inverse correlation – the less vehicle traffic, the more deer traffic. If you really want to get away from the crowd, and back where the big bucks roam, unload your ATV and ride the least-accessible roads and trails into the more remote areas. Reading Tracks Once you find a track, you’ll want to determine a few things, including the age of the track, and the deer that made it. Big tracks means big deer – usually, though not always a buck. Track sizes can vary considerably, but you’ll know a really big one when you see it. And width is often a more important indicator than length. If you’re after a big buck, you want a track at least 4 inches long and 3-1/2 inches wide. You can also judge the relative sinking depth of the track – the deeper the track, the heavier the deer that made it. To determine track age, you need to pay attention to local environmental conditions. When did it last snow? How long has the snow been on the ground? How cold has it been? Did it warm up today and melt out part of the track? What type of snow is on the ground: wet, powder or granular? Do the tracks look like they were made in soft, wet or dry, frozen snow? Some of this will only come with experience, but you can always compare deer tracks with your own boot prints to see how they differ. The Behavior Once on the track, try to determine what the buck was up to. Was it feeding, following a doe or making time? In either of the former two cases, you need to go on red alert immediately. After feeding, it’ll likely bed. So will a doe, and it’ll bed with her. If the buck is “lining out,” you’ve got to do likewise. You’ve got a lot of ground to cover, and at best only 8 hours to do it. You need to move along at a brisk pace to make up time. If and when you feel you’re closing in, it’s time to use your eyes more than your feet. Move slowly and quietly, pausing often and long to scan ahead, and to the sides. You’ve got to spot the buck before it spots, or smells, you. Either mode can be exhausting, both physically and mentally. Hiking in snow takes a toll, and will wear you out. Still, hunting requires tremendous concentration. Don’t expect to find the deer standing in the open, though you may. Move slowly and study the brush, looking for parts of a deer, like a patch of brown, sunlight glinting of an antler, or the tell-tale horizontal line of its back or belly, or movement, like the flick of an ear. Watch also for sudden changes in the deer’s direction of travel. A sudden change may indicate it’s headed for bed, and may be lying nearby. And always be mindful of the wind. Remember to be safe. Never leave the road without a compass. Leave a note or let somebody know where you plan on spending the day; and always carry a survival kit in case you end up spending the night.

Post: 7 July 10:34

Hunting the Modern Cottontail Rabbit A New Age Has Dawned in the World of Rabbit Hunting Hunters have been pursuing the Eastern cottontail ever since the time of the earliest Native Americans. Although hunter numbers have declined from peak numbers, rabbit hunting still remains extremely popular overall and is one of the most popular small game pursuits. However, the dynamics of hunting cottontails have changed dramatically, and to achieve consistent success in the field, hunters must adapt to the new age of rabbit hunting. The Decline Bunny Facts: The number of rabbit hunters has declined through the years. Even so, rabbit hunting is still popular. According to recent surveys, approximately 1.5 million people hunt rabbits and/or hares. Rabbit/hare hunting ranked as the fourth most popular hunting endeavor, tied with pheasant hunting and behind only whitetail deer, turkey, and squirrel. Rabbit hunting ranked more popular than waterfowl and dove hunting, as well as all other species such as elk, bear, and others. A decade or two ago, finding rabbits was really not all that difficult. They are well known as prolific breeders, and though population numbers may take a dip in years with extremely bad weather, numbers bounce back rather quickly after weather improves. Back in the day, there was also ample habitat. Now rabbit habitat is shrinking every year. There is more predation. The outcome: rabbit populations, although still very good, are not what they used to be. Going out on the back 40 and kicking brush rarely results in bagging a limit of cottontails. Shrinking habitat has not only reduced rabbit numbers but it has also reduced hunter access and allowed predators easier opportunities to bag a bunny for dinner. The proliferation and expanding populations of coyotes throughout the cottontail range — plus numbers of domestic feral cats at an all-time high — has only increased predation on rabbits. All of these habitat and predation factors have led to changes in rabbit location and behavior. Where They Hide Rabbits are found most anywhere they can find food sources and cover (for hiding from predators and also thermal protection from the elements). In most locations, sparse cover does not hold rabbits like it once did. Hunters must concentrate on areas with denser and more abundant cover to find rabbits in good supply. Hard-earned success is much more rewarding. (Photo by Russell Graves) Hard-earned success is much more rewarding. (Photo by Russell Graves) An exception to this rule is near dwellings, barns, oilrigs, and other areas with a consistent amount of human activity. Coyotes and many other predators steer clear of areas where people are constantly present, but a rabbit will hang out in brush or other thick foliage and disregard most human activity. In the last decade or so, it seems they have increased their attraction to these areas and are even more numerous in urban areas than the past. Regardless, areas with human activity, sufficient cover, and a lack of predators are prime locations for finding rabbits. As mentioned, rabbits in more remote areas are found mostly in the thicker cover than in places with thin cover. Rabbits have always liked thick cover; that is no surprise. The difference is that they are found less in other areas than in the past. When I first began rabbit hunting, it was very common to walk into a field of grass and jump a few rabbits just walking around or to kick an isolated clump of cover and reasonably expect a rabbit to come darting out. That just isn’t the case anymore. Hunters must hit sparse cover early in the season for any success at all. This is especially true in agricultural areas, as rabbits forced from row crop fields during harvest often take cover along the edges. However, within a short period of time, they are either decimated by predation or they move to thicker, safer locations. The absolute best locations for finding rabbits are areas with extremely dense cover. Gnarly tangles of briars, thorns, honeysuckle, and brush are difficult to reach for coyotes and foxes and make great locations for rabbits to hide from birds of prey. Likewise, they are hard to “kick up” by walking hunters. Rabbits hold much tighter in these areas and often do not jump unless almost stepped on or forced out by a rabbit dog willing to bury deep into cover. Having good rabbit dogs — especially one or two good “jump” dogs — is what often spells the difference in success these days. Dogs that skirt the edges of cover are not going to get up a lot of bunnies. Watch Them Run “There he goes,” is a common phrase shouted by hunters as the rabbit bolts from cover and streaks off down the field edge or across an open area to the next patch of thick cover. Hunters then try to determine which direction the rabbit is going and get in a position to intercept it and have a shooting opportunity when the rabbit circles back near the jump location. That part hasn’t changed, but what has changed in many cases is how a rabbit runs and circles. Cottontails have a relatively small home range and are well familiar with their local surroundings. They do not like to leave this comfort zone. Therefore, a cottontail often darts out and puts as much distance as possible between it and the pursuing dogs. Then it slows down or stops and waits. As the dogs following the scent trail get near, the rabbit moves again. Eventually, it makes its way back to or near the original jump site. Most times, this jump and circle does not cover a large distance. It all depends upon the habitat and how cover is positioned. But usually a circle is within 100 yards or so. However, in areas where rabbits are constantly pressured by predators, especially along strips of cover between two crop fields, rabbits these days run much farther before turning and starting to circle. In recent years, I have seen numerous rabbits pop out of cover and run full speed along the edge of a field until they are completely out of sight. We have to accept this as the new norm and be willing to work a little harder to get into position for a shot. Kicking Them Up In contrast to the propensity of cottontails to locate and hold tight within the thickest cover to be found, there are still possibilities today for finding “easy” rabbits. Even with all the changes in habitat, predation, and rabbit behavior, it is still possible to bag a few rabbits without having dogs. However, hunters must choose hunting locations wisely and then be willing to put in some sweat equity if they are to enjoy a hot plate of rabbit stew. Some of the best locations to walk up a few rabbits are the aforementioned areas of human activity. Around barns, stored farm implements, automotive junkyards, grown-up spots around ponds, and other areas located where humans are close by are great spots for kicking brush. The best locations are isolated away from woods. Look for places where coyotes, foxes, and bobcats would have to cross wide-open fields to reach. A Full Game Bag Rabbit hunting is a tremendous amount of fun, and, of course, rabbits are one of the tastiest wild game meals to make an appearance on the dinner table. Rabbits may not be as easy to find now. Finding quality rabbit habitat and obtaining permission to hunt it is not what it once was, either. Nonetheless, with a little more work, a friend or two, and perhaps a couple of good dogs (or even a whole pack), rabbit hunting is as much fun and as rewarding as ever. Time spent in the field, the camaraderie, and the “gourmet” dining experience all combine to make any extra effort well worthwhile.

Post: 4 July 21:28

How to Plant a Deer Orchard Should fruit trees be part of your program? Check out these tips for starting new trees Lush fields of clover, alfalfa and brassicas aren’t the only crops that will hold deer on your property. Once established, fruit trees can produce highly attractive forage for 40 years or more. The right trees produce edible fruit throughout the entire hunting season, drawing deer from a distance and holding them on your property. Select the Right Tree Deer will readily consume apples, pears, plums, persimmons, and mulberries. By planting a variety of trees, you can ensure at least one ripe food source throughout the season. Most fruit varieties are available in dwarf, semi-dwarf and standard sizes. Dwarf varieties mature around 8- to 10-feet tall and wide. They’re suitable for small spaces and can stand up to high winds better than larger trees. Their height also makes it easier for deer to reach fruit before it falls to the ground, though the small size of these trees limits fruit production. While a deer orchard on your property might cost a bit more up front than traditional food plots, the long-term payoff and ease of maintenance is worth the price. Most semi-dwarf trees average 12- to 15-feet tall and wide, and will produce roughly twice as much fruit as a dwarf variety while remaining relatively wind resistant and easy to maintain. Though they take up more space than dwarf trees, the hybrids can still be planted in tight clusters, making them ideal for most farms. Standard-sized trees can reach 25 feet in both height and width. While they produce the most fruit per tree, standard varieties are also more susceptible to wind damage and take the longest to produce fruit. They fit best in large spaces with a nearby windbreak, like larger timber or hilly terrain. Pick an Orchard Site Fruit trees need sunlight to produce, so open field edges (preferably near bedding areas or food plots) will be the most productive locations. Like any crop, it’s always best to get your soil tested before planting your orchard. Fruit trees grow best in well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0. If you soil pH falls outside this range, it can be corrected to make your trees more productive. Stark Brothers Nursery, one of the nation’s largest fruit tree producers, recommends digging the hole for your fruit tree as much as three times wider and deeper than your root ball. The loose soil can then be mixed with compost, rotted (never green) manure, or other organic material, then backfilled to provide a loose, fertile rooting space for the new tree. Trees should be planted at or below the root graft, or roughly the same depth they are potted at the nursery. Planting too deep will stunt the growth of your tree and delay fruit production. For most of the country, early spring is the perfect time to plant fruit trees. Wait until the risk of hard freezes subsides in your area, and plant your saplings when the soil isn’t too wet and heavy. Space the saplings roughly twice the distance as the expected height of the mature tree. Choose the Right Saplings There are three basic fruit tree options for planting. The easiest, and most likely to thrive, are potted trees from a nursery. Potted trees are generally the largest and fastest to mature of all the young trees. The only drawback is the cost: These are the most expensive, normally ranging from $30 to $100 or more depending on the size and variety you select. Much more affordable – but smaller and slower to mature – are bare-rooted seedlings. These will run $10 to $40 dollars depending on size, variety and the quantity you order. Bare-rooted seedlings should be planted as soon as possible after you get your hands on them. If you can’t plant them right away, store the seedlings in a shaded area and keep the roots moist, but not wet. The most economical method of obtaining fruit trees is to purchase root stock and graft your own seedlings from sprouts off of an existing tree. Root stocks can be purchased for as little as $1, and sprouts off existing trees are free, making self-grafting your own seedlings the way to go if you don’t have a budget or want to plant so many trees that buying them all is out of the question. o graft a tree, cut a section of the scion (the sprout from the existing tree) into a wedge shape and insert into a slit made in the root stock. The graft is then wrapped tightly with a rubber band until the two sections have grown together. (Learn how to graft fruit trees right here.) Don’t forget: Many fruit varieties, particularly apples, require a tree of another variety nearby to cross pollinate. When choosing varieties, check the tag on your seedling to see if it requires a pollinator or is self-pollinating. Plant your trees in clusters to make pollination by bees and other insects more reliable. Protect Your Investment Once you have your trees or seedlings in the ground, it’s important to take care of them. Rabbits, deer and other wildlife are attracted to the tender browse provided by young fruit trees, but a section of black corrugated drain pipe, slit down one side and wrapped around the seedling, will protect them from damage. Young trees are also attractive to browsing deer and late-summer bucks looking to polish antlers as their velvet sheds. A wire fence around young trees will prevent damage or destruction to your orchard. Drive three or four metal T posts in either a triangle or square pattern around the tree and wrap the posts with fencing wire. Or find a section of hog panel, available at your local farm store, and bend it to form a circle around the tree. Trees should be watered after planting and during dry periods for the first year or two. Trimming or spraying any grass or weeds around the base means less competition to the tree for water and nutrients. Stark Brothers recommends feeding fruit trees once or twice each year. Fertilize in the spring with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 for optimum growth and fruit production. To reduce the possibility of wind damage and increase fruit production, prune your fruit trees yearly. Cut away any crossing branches, branches that grow back into the center of the tree or those that grow straight up. A properly pruned fruit tree will have layers of horizontal branches with plenty of open space to allow sunlight to reach all the limbs. While a deer orchard on your property might cost a bit more up front than traditional food plots, the long-term payoff and ease of maintenance is worth the price. A variety of fruit ripening throughout the fall and winter will keep deer coming back to your place – and make it easy for you to choose a stand location.

Post: 30 June 10:43

Related to request “H”